hat makes a good beer label?” A series of talking heads mull over the question, before Kalamazoo, Michigan artist Ladislav Richard Hanka tells the story of his involvement with the very first commissioned artwork for a beer label, from Bell’s Brewery around 40 years ago. The rise of craft beer got companies to realize how consumers could be driven by snappy label art, which meant that a new demand arose for creative, compelling illustrations. And the particular alcoholic beverage’s imagery at the center of this picture received a few seconds in the spotlight during a Dave Chappelle comedy set, prompting the filmmakers to delve deeper.

Ladislav began by sketching portraits of barflies at the Rex Cafe, many of which ended up on beer bottles from the Bell company. But since this short subject documentary is actually a lengthier, more detailed account of this artist, time is given for him to discuss not only his education and glimpses into his childhood, but also the meaning behind his most recognized label, the fish on the Two Hearted Ale bottle. His inspirations are also chronicled, shedding light – a considerable amount of light – on how this piece of art was dreamed up, the background of the Two Hearted River (and the name and the founders behind the Bell company), and how the design was executed.

Curiously, the attention to details and history is so comprehensive that it’s divided into numerous chapters, breaking down the extensive information available about such a narrow topic. As with any documentary, its commercial success is comparatively narrow, depending on the hopefully wider or likely limited appeal of the subject matter. And in this case, that subject is almost prohibitively slim; the characters may be quirky and pleasant (salt-of-the-earth types), the photography vivid, the settings tranquil, the editing professional, and the graphics sharp, but it’s difficult to imagine that more than a handful of people will be entertained by this story, even if sentimentally relating to the personas is easy enough. And with its questionably overlong, 40-minute runtime, that goal becomes even more challenging (it’s clearly a passion project for its directors, Bret Miller and Rory McHarg, as they approach the topic with fondness and nostalgia, as if a reminiscence on a simpler, serener past).

As it alternates between commentary from former employees, art collectors, family members (including Hanka’s wife Jana), a graphic design professor, filmmakers, and more, the premise strangely stalls. While the opening moments had the luxury of basic inquisitiveness, the later sequences can only build upon Ladislav’s collection of nature-based inkings and etchings and the various associates he works with; it never progresses to a point where there’s an obvious, revelatory – or even satisfying – conclusion. By the end, no one is even certain exactly how effective the artwork is for selling beer, though the art itself – at least for Hanka – is meditative and an excellent outlet for inner expression (the coda goes so far as to state that “The art of the beer label is purely subjective”). A prying question that isn’t answered, however, is why brewery founder Larry Bell refused to be a part of this project, considering his company is featured so prominently. Just how eccentric is he?

– Mike Massie